THURS, MAY 7 ELECTION DAY
Very little traffic. Went for a walk with Imtiyaz and Faizan in the morning. I cut oats with some ladies in the field, and took video footage of them. We were not allowed to walk into any villages, but had to stay on the road only. If there is going to be any trouble on election day, it will be in the villages. So we turned around after a while and headed back. Even though in most of Kashmir the actual voting turnout is only 3 or 4%, here in our Ganderbal district the voting turnout is closer to 60%. I found out one of the reasons why on Friday, when Sami and I visited the top military commander in Ganderbal. Commandant Vivik Sharma believes strongly in eliminating militancy, not just militants. I have learned that in Kashmir the independence fighters are called militants by some; terrorists by others. Commandant Sharma's job is only to find and stop the militants. But he does more. Much more. He organizes free cataract surgeries, field trips to Delhi for school children, free veterinary training for the small farmers, and locates funds to support efforts like the Hope Disability Centre. He brought out several photo albums of all the community assistance projects his troops have oganised in the 3 years he has been there. It was very impressive. He will be reassigned soon. And I think he has chosen to build a cricket stadium in Ganderbal as his lasting contribution to the community. It will be finished next month. But he is most proud of the fact that not one of his soldiers has troubled any of the students at the all girls school right next door. Not once in 3 years. He does not want recognition for any of these good works, however, because his superior officers would not approve. They want him only to find and stop the militants, and nothing else. But his approach works. There is peace in Ganderbal District. People turn out to vote. The Commandant General even requires his men to treat suspected militants with respect and consideration. There was a photo of a militant giving himself up in the room we were sitting in. The military found and took in this PakIstani militant who had come to Kashmir to help liberate the country, and asked him why he had chosen the militant path. The Pakistani said he had heard that Muslims were not allowed to worship at the mosques, and other offenses. So the commandant took him around Ganderbal and showed him the open mosques, and allowed him to talk to the local people about life in Ganderbal District. And the man, who had not killed anyone, ended up joining the army. If all the miliary commanders around the world were like this man, there would be no need for militaries at all. Sami considers him a friend, and I can see why. I hope his successor will have the same mindset, but it is highly unlikely.

I found this at the online edition of Kashmir Times, about Commandant Sharma:

SRINAGAR, Jan 17: Apart from anti-militancy operations, the 3 Sector Rashtriya Rifles (RR) claims to have served the people of Ganderbal and Mansbal on many other fronts last year. Giving details to Kashmir Times, Commander 3 Sector RR, Brigadier Jehangir said that a series of developments and people friendly activities were carried out last year by the troops of his sector. He said that GOC Kilo Force Gen Rajinder Singh supervised the developments and people friendly operations. The commander stated that they conducted a free mega medical eye camp in Ganderbal, which was inaugurated by the then GOC 15 Corps Lt Gen A S Sekhon and conducted more than 300 cataract surgeries on local people. Brigadier said a foot bridge was constructed at Shalbug. He said women empowerment centres are being run under the aegis of army at Gadura, Batwina and Anderwan. Similarly various computer centres were also being run in the areas. Brig Jehangir said that local students were sent on a tour to Jamnanagar, Ahmedabad, Delhi, Agra and Dehradun. He said, "Children are the future of the nation and we wish healthy and intelligent future," adding, "For future we are ready to help them." He said that the 3 Sector wants that youth of the area should take part in sports. "In order to cultivate the sportsman spirit amongst the youth of Ganderbal and adjoining areas, and bring these areas in the forefront of sports activities at the state and national level we initiated a project of multipurpose sports stadium at Gadura Ganderbal with an estimated cost of Rs one crore. The commander added that the project is executed by 5 RR and its commanding officer Vivek Sharma is supervising the project. He said that sector is at the disposal of the local people. "If the public needs any help, they must contact me or the nearest army camp in the area and any sort of help will be provided to them," Brig Jehangir said. He said people friendly developmental works will be continued in future. "I acknowledge the support of people in developmental works as well as anti-militancy operations" Brig Jehangir said.

Sami and I also visited a disabled girl who had been left too long for Sami to help her. She is disabled for life. Her legs are bad and so is her back. She stays at home and does beautiful, very detailed embroidery. Some pieces take two years to finish. I filmed her and used the close up feature on the video camera for the first time. Her aunt made us tea. It was the first time I had tasted it. Milk, sugar, and cardamom. Delicious ! This girl will be the first recipient of a wheelchair from the free wheelchair mission, if we can find the money to ship a truckload of wheelchairs from Kerala in the south of India all the way up to Kashmir. With a ramp into the house and a wheelchair, she will be able to go out and visit the neighbours. There is almost no traffic on her quiet side street, so it will be perfect for her.

Monday, May 4 to Wed May 6

Mon May 4
Rainy. It was hard to walk along the roadside to get bread and milk and stay clean. And safe, because there are now many puddles along the roadside. I marvel at how the girls who wear white or brightly coloured saaris and salwar kameez pants can keep the bottoms clean in these conditions. I am grateful for my black pants!

After breakfast of fresh bread rounds and oatmeal with raisins and almonds I headed to Srinagar with Sami. Two patient's surgeries were delayed due to election protest strikes. These people cannot well afford to pay city prices for their food, and the country father and disabled son - where will they stay for a few days while waiting for elections to be over?

We also visited a government lady who is organising a 5 day conference on rehabilitation of the disabled. She invited me to attend. Not for 5 days! She also wants Sami to speak. I will ask him if he would like me to put together a presentation for him. They may be coming out to visit us during their field visits. The shop may be open by then. Maybe not.

I offered to buy windshield wipers and a flashing red light for the ambulance van. We also looked at a siren, but there is no way I will add to the noise level and disharmony of the Kashmiri traffic. The light is silent but will command more respect from other drivers than a nasty hurtful siren, and will not damage the ears of the pedestrians. The guys in the shop did not cover their ears when it was tested. Not a wise move. One of them jumped out of his skin when it was tested.

On the way back to Wayil we dropped off photos to be printed for me in Ganderbal town. A couple of army men spotted me through the shop window and came into the store to check me out. I don't fit the profile of a militant terrorist, but any foreigner is suspect here. I fully expected them to ask me for an ID. I carry my NZ driver's license and a copy of my NZ passport with me. But they must have been satisfied that I was not a serious threat to their authority, and let me leave the shop without comment. We also picked up some fresh cheese and yogurt. They do not have aged cheese here, only fresh. It is usually deep fried and added to vegetables with spices. Very nice!
There were students awainting computer training when I returned, and in between helping them I started work on the Annual Report, using the outline Tahir gave me. We had dinner at Sami's Aunt and uncle's house, in a nearby village - this one is on the way to the Police Acadamy. To my surprise, this prosperous engineer in the small village in Kashmir is an Amway dealer. We had some very interesting discussions about capitalism and politics and western culture.





Tuesday, May 5
Today is a CBR: Community Based Rehabilitation visit. Sami brings hearing testing equipment and we go to a village to find disabled people who need help. The village was Kulharna, and it had been arranged by the newspaper reporter who had stopped by a week before. Our first stop was at a school where there were two disabled teenage boys. The school superintendent asked me my opinion of Kashmir, and was pleased with my answers. Yes. I like it here. For many reasons. And I am finding more all the time. When funds become available, these boys will have surgery. In the meantime, exercises can be done to help. On our way to our next stop, to a house in the village, the ambulance got stuck in a deep hole and had to be pushed out. There were enough men at hand, so I just documented it.
There were 4 disabled family members in the house we visited. All were rickets cases. The 21 year old girl had never been seen by a doctor, nor had the 12 year old. The grandfather also had a hearing problem, and Sami was able to give him one of the used hearing aids from New Zealand during our visit, after testing him. I videotaped and photographed the people we saw. The 21 year old will be coming for computer training next week. As we left the house, Sami offered to take a photo of me as the three of us tried to pick our way through the mud. I gave him my camera. My mistake was that I stood still just a moment too long, and my shoes became so stuck in the mud that my feet slipped out of them every time I tried to take a step. It was very comical. I almost gave up and walked barefoot, but somehow managed to get out with my shoes still on my feet. 5 pounds heavier.

Tomorrow is a major strike protest against Indian rule. No one will be allowed to vote. People go along with it because they feel all the politicians are crooked anyway, so which one gets elected hardly matters.




Wed, May 6
Very cold! Last night I only took off my jacket before climbing into bed. Too cold too change into my sleeping clothes. Fortunately, my clothes are very forgiving of being slept in, and looked fine the next morning.On the way to get bread and milk and bananas for breakfast, I took this photo of some neighbours. No school today because of the strike against the election. And the sky was clear, so I took this photo of the bridhe and mountain right by the Hope Centre.



There were many Indian army soldiers around today. On every corner. Some come into the compound and wander around. I ask to take a photo, but was denied. Later in the day, however, I did manage to get a photo. The day was clear and cold, and the mountains were beautiful. My main activity for the next 3 days was working on the annual report and brochure.

I have come up with an idea for funding. When I was contacting organisations around the world for volunteer opps, one of them sent an application form and required $800 US per month to stay with them and volunteer. I didn't mind because I knew my money was going to run the centre, and the people there would make sure my time was well used. So we are going to do the same thing at Hope Centre. It is such an amazing experience to live here, where there are no tourists, that this experience is well worth paying more than backpacker rates for. And it will bring in, after expenses, about $600 US per month in the summer when volunteers are most likely to visit. I am contributing much more than this, and am happy to do so.

Continued work on the Annual Report. Tahir came by and worked on the ledger books.






This boy is named Ishtyak. He was orphaned in the earthquake in 2005, and now lives with Sami's mother and father in their large house in Wayil village.








Sami's father is a construction contractor, and is building a new house a couple of houses down, for the family. The wood is hewn by hand!





Tahir took me over one day to take a look at the construction. There is a warm room being built in the house - where a fire is built under the room and the heat rises through rocks and the concrete floor to keep it nice and toasty, without carrying around the wicker basket with the coals in it. Another great idea!

Sunday, May 3

Sun, May 3
Here is a photo of Sami and I on the swing in front of Hope Centre. I am wearing my lovely pheran with the embroidery, which cost less than $10 US.

The bulbuls insist on coming into the Hope Centre as soon as the doors are opened in the morning, and doing their best to build a nest among the wires near the ceiling. And every morning they are chased out and the beginnings of their nest removed.

I took a long walk this morning -

I dropped off a photo to Sgt Ahmed, the top military man who supervises the bridge next to Hope Centre. But I had no time to stop for tea. Continuing across the bridge, I took some photos of the oats being harvested . This is all done by hand - with a small and sharp sickle.

My photo taking always attracts attention. I was invited in for tea at farmhouse. And this time I accepted. The houses are very interesting. No furniture except a few pillows in the main guest room, and in the bedroom only a bed. I took photos of the family: grandfather and his 'hubble bubble', mother and daughter, daughter and son, and an aunt who stopped by to get some greens from her sister's garden.

I will stop by and give them the photos now that they are printed.

I continued on my walk, greeting everyone with 'hello' if they were schoolchildren studying English at school, or 'assalam alaikum' if they were adults. I found this stone wall very interesting along the way.

Eventually I came to the place where the Sindh River is managed, so that all the numerous streams and canals and ditches get just the right amount of water, no matter what is happening upstream.

I turned around to return, and on the way stopped at a tiny shop to buy some vegetables from this lovely man across from the Police Training Compound.

25 rupees, less than $1 NZ, for 3 large potatoes, 5 big radishes, 3 red onions, and 7 small tomatoes. And he kept putting extra veggies in my bag.

During election time, just like in the US and New Zealand, convoys of local politicians drive through the villages, loudspeakers blaring. The big difference here, though, is that there are hooded men carrying assault rifles riding on the top of the vehicles!

Since it was Sunday, Imtiyaz suggested it be a holiday from computer training. Sami was gone, so I took the opportunity to clean. Scrubbed floors in bathroom, kitchen, hallway. Computer students came anyway, at all times. I am getting too many students coming and asking for help. Few are disabled. I need to change the system. I talked to Imtiyaz and Sami about it. Now only staff and disabled will have computer training. Others may come once a week. This will give me more time to write the annual report, a brochure, and a newsletter. Tahir came over Sun night with an internet stick. This technology is supposed to be 'plug and play'. You pay for the USB stick, and it connects itself to the internet via cell phone waves, and installs itself into your computer. Not surprisingly, it didn't work in my Mac. It works fine on Sami's desktop. But it is slower than dial up. It was supposed to be high speed. But it still might be useful for a laptop if I get one for Sami.
I had dinner at Wani house. Sami's brother Tarik gave me a beautiful scarf. Now, with my pheran, I fit in better. As Imtiyaz says "Who is that Kashmiri girl in the photo?"

Sami received a special government recognition and status letter today. FCRA. He has been working on it for 2 years, and went to Delhi 3 times. Hope Ctr is the only nonprofit organisation in all of Kashmir to have it. He is very happy. It will make it easier for him to get donations from Kashmiris and Indian NGOs, as well as overseas.

Kashmir Sat May 2

Sami and I stayed overnight at Tahir's house in Srinagar after the Shikara ride. The next morning Tahir and I went for a walk to get bread for breakfast. Once around the school yard, and onto the street. I loved the environmental signs on the school proprety. Went for a walk w/ Tahir. Loved the environmental signs!

Not surprisingly, people on the street are not friendly like those in the villages. They do not speak to each other and do not return my smiles. I am so grateful to be out away from the city. And so grateful to be staying with local people who are intrigued by tourists and not sick of them.

Tahir gets the newspaper, and the May 1 edition of Greater Kashmir had a half page editorial on relationships. I am always pleasantly surprised when I open a newspaper here. There is always a long article on spirituality, or relationships, or something similar on the OpEd page. Here are some quotes from the relationship article: "The desire for human relationship is the most popular striving in the man. It is the most fundamental passion, the force which keeps the human race together, the clan, the family, the society. The failure to achieve it means insanity or destruction - self destruction - or destruction of others....The problem in the world today is not one of producing enough food and goods so that there is sufficient for all, but rather a problem of peoples living together harmoniously. We need to know how to get along on a person to person basis. In today's world it is rare for persons to share what really matters - the tender, shy, reluctant feelings, the sensitive, fragile, intense disclosures. It is equally rare for persons to listen intently enough to really understand what another is saying....One can acquire great material wealth, and experience, all kinds of sensual pleasure solely through taking; but one cannot maintain human relationship without giving." Bhushan Bazaz

Tahir also has a TV, and I watched the Peace channel for a bit. A learned Islamic leader was comparing Islam to Hinduism. It was very interesting.

Went to the hospital. The little boy with the deformed feet and legs had been operated on.

Parmeena's mother greeted us at the entrance. Parmeena not had surgery yet due to strike. She ended up staying in the hospital a week and then had to go home and wait at home another week, all due to the strikes around the election. Typical for Kashmir. I was told that last year there were 3 months of strikes. This is very hard for the families, because the students go to school during summer here, not winter. So nearly a whole school year was lost last year. And many lives, because the protests turned violent when the Indian paramilitary returned bullets for rocks.

We then visited a second cousin and former patient who has cerebral palsey. Sami has been giving her therapy since she was a baby. She was fascinated with my hair, and loved how she looked in sunglasses. Her grandfather, Baba, has been a financial supporter of Sami, and liked looking at the videos I took of Sami at work. He is the retired Superintendent of Police. On the way out of the compound, one of the guards stopped us for a chat with me. He started to tell me that his back hurt. It is not the first time I have been mistaken for a doctor while hanging out with Sami. What else ciuld a grey haired foreign woman be doing riding in an ambulance with a well known doctor?

A large convoy of troops was on the move today. Sami said they were heading to the Pakistani border. Trouble brewing?

More photos from the van/ambulance on the ride back to Wayil. Never a dull moment here!!

Kashmir May1 - more

I see many amazing things on my rides in the van back and forth to Srinagar, and many times I so wish I could ask the driver Din, or Sami if he is the one driving to stop so I can take a photo. But of course I can't do that, so I do what I can from the window of the van. The trucks with their interesting messages. Most of them with the "Blow Horn" message, but also messages like "God is Love", and "Love is God" are also out there. A common one is "Work like a coolie, live like a prince". I need some interepretation on this one. Being an animal lover, I thoroughly enjoy seeing animals all around. Like horse drawn carts:

Or unattended calves!

On this day we visited the hospital to check on one of the youngest patients going in for surgery to correct crooked feet. Sami takes photos of before and right after surgery, and as the patient recovers, to show progress. All goes in their file. There are now over 1000 files. Not all surgery, of course, but all people who have been helped since he began in 1999. So many people have helped. Rob Buchanan of MEND in New Zealand, the doctors (one pictured) who generously donate their time for Sami's patients, the suppliers of the pins to straighten legs who sell at cost to Sami, the list goes on.

I recently learned the story of how Sami got started from him. He had finished his physiotherapy training, and was working in a private physiotherapy clinic in Srinagar, and began noticing that of all the children coming in for help, there were none coming from his own area of Ganderbal, only 35 km away. So he started making inquiries, and he and his brother Tahir learned that there were hundreds of disabled in the Ganderbal district. Many did not know there was help available in Srinagar. Many could not afford even the bus fare to get to a doctor in Srinagar, or their disability prevented them from taking a bus, or getting to a bus stop to get to Srinagar. The hurdles of the disabled are many and large. At first Sami started bringing children into Srinagar from Ganderbal. But there were so many. He sent e-mails to nonprofit organisations around the world asking for help. Only one replied. Rob Buchanan from New Zealand. Rob came to Kashmir, and helped Sami by paying for his salary and office space in Wayil village to get him started. Tahir worked to get the organisation set up as a nonprofit, and the people in the villages and the police and the Indian army all helped. Their father donated land, and in 2006 the building was built. Rob continued to help, and visit, and locate other funding organisations and self-funding ideas, like the cricket tournament.

One evening I was treated to a sunset ride on a shikara boat on Dal Lake. Dal Lake is larger than I realized. We were with family and friends, and after sunset, went to a shop where traditional Kashmiri embroidered pherans can be bought. Tahir helps the women who make these beautiful warm wraps sell their work, as part of his job. His work with the Hope Centre is all voluntary. I was amazed at the quality and detail of the needlework.

Here is a close up of the white pheran pictured above:

And a pillow:

I selected a dark blue (hides the dirt) pheran with detailing. You will soon see many photos of it here!

Kashmir - May 1

When I first arrived in Wayil village, I noticed that all the houses seemed to be unfinished. As though the house was built, but the roof wasn't done yet. All these houses with open attics. I learned why one day when Sami and I were heading off to Srinagar for a hospital visit, and had to stop because of a road blockage: The oats being harvested in the fields were being hauled up to be stored in the tops of the houses. One of the oh so practical ways of living here. During the summer, the grass and oats gets hauled up to the top of the houses. Dry and removed from rats and mice, it also is several feet thick and warm and toasty by the time the cold weather sets in, and provides good insulation for the house during the winter. By spring, it is used up for the animals, and they start over again.

This is Mubeena. She is one of the students who come every weekday to Hope Centre. I recently learned more about her life. When Sami first saw her, she was unable to walk or speak, having spent her entire 18 years of life sitting in a corner of a room at her parent's house. Cerebral palsey. They had no idea she could be helped! Sami started picking her up and bringing her to the centre for rehabilitation. Now, a year later, she is walking with the aid of a walker, as you can see, and talks and even communicates in English with me. She occasionally joins in for computer training, but has difficulty with the mouse and keys. It is frustrating for her. Much easier to talk! She is very intelligent, and full of life.

During one of the strikes to protest Indian elections, Sami and friends decided to have a cricket game. I came along to watch. We hopped the fence to get into the schoolgrounds. Sami is the batter in this photo. During the game, I pulled out the my English/Kashmiri notebook to practice my Kashmiri, and learn a few more words, and soon had all the young boys (there were no girls anywhere around) surrounding me, all shouting the Kashmiri word for the English one I was trying to translate. With the small boys on top of the wall, chattering away to each other like small birds overhead. It was very funny!

Several times a week, I go with Sami to Srinagar. Often we go toSher-e-Kashmir Institute of Medical Sciences (SKIMS), hospital. This public hospital, is where the poor come, if they can afford to. Though some of the care is free, the hospital charges for parents staying there while their children are in hospital, and things like special shoes are not covered. Only the very basics. And even the extra cost of food for the child and parent while the child is in hospital, and the transport to Srinagar, is an insurmountable barrier for many people who do not have the cash for such things. So they get by, and live as best they can in their small village, and people in the village help the family of the disabled as they can. And that is life in rural Kashmir. Sami Wani and the Hope Disability Centre has been changing this, and truly bringing hope to the children and their families.

Since my first blog entry, people have asked how they can help. If you wish to be part of this work, there are a couple of ways you can help. If you wish to help financially, you can send money to samiwani12@yahoo.com via your PayPal account. It is a new service of Paypal. Even small amounts are accepted. If you wish to write a check instead, make it out to Diane Emerson, and send it to my sister Sandy:

Sandy Tuzinski, 2008 Dixon Drive, Bloomington, Minnesota 55431.

For readers in New Zealand, you can make a tax deductible donation to the MEND Trust, and make a note that it is for the work in Kashmir, India. Rob Buchanan will make sure the money is used here to help Sami in his work. See http://www.mendnz.com/ for details on bank accounts and address. I can guarantee that your money will be very well spent, and small amounts can have a huge impact over here.

Here is a photo of the day students having lunch. Most of them are picked up by the van every morning. One of them makes his way here by bus. He is deaf, and has a pin on his sweater to notify people who don't understand why he doesn't reply to their questions.

We laid a pipe from the kitchen sink to the stream one day. The dishes are mostly washed with stream water, and it goes right back. Maybe this will change in the future.

Kashmir First Week

Tuesday morning Imtiyaz and I went for bread and milk, and I was fortunate to spot a man with a wicker basket of hot coals - the way Kashmiris keep themselves warm in winter.




One of the team who makes our bread every morning is blind, and his helpers do the other work. The bread is thrown against the side of the sunken oven wall where it bakes quickly. We buy 6 or 10 of these every morning.



After breakfast, Sami and I took Parmeena - the girl from the night before - and her mother -with us to the public hospital in Srinigar for surgery on her other leg.






























While at the hospital, we also saw Naza, the girl from up in the mountains. She was in the hospital to have her cast removed. She was smiling now! I showed her the photos and movies I had taken of her during our visit, as we sat together in the waiting room. She was being carried by her uncle, as she was unable to put any weight on the leg without the cast – not yet. She and her aunt and uncle rode back to Wayil with us in the van, and caught a bus to go the rest of the way up into the mountains from there.

Wednesday there was a strike called by the religious leaders of Kashmir, to protest the Indian government’s rule of Kashmir and to prevent people from voting. This was the first time I saw angry Kashmiris. When Imtiyaz and I went to buy our morning bread and milk, there was a jeep full of very angry looking men, and they did not seem to pleased to see me, or anyone else out on the street, for that matter. During a strike, all the stores are to be closed, all the government offices, etc. Sami said I should stay in the Centre. No walking. Because there was a 72 hour strike, all the schools were closed, so students showed up early for computer training. Between training and re-doing all the photos in Sami’s computer from the past 5 years, it was a busy computer day for me. In the evening, Sami and I went to his parent’s place, and I began my lessons in Kashmiri from his father, and then played volleyball with the kids. I was much improved, and I am sure it amused some of the older guys, who were sitting around chatting after their game, that I could actually play.

So here are some of my first impressions of Kashmir, after a week:
The people in the villages are very friendly and kind, and they love freedom and peace. This is borne out by how they treat their animals. There are no factory farms in Kashmir, that I am aware of. All the chickens are free range organic, and the cocks are not killed as chicks, either. Everywhere I saw animals living their lives freely with the humans. Sheep do not have their tails docked, nor do dogs. I have seen sheep in the city, grazing untended in the narrow grass strip between lanes of cars, cows and calves on the streets, dogs never caged nor on leashes, and much better fed than most farm dogs I have seen. In fact, when I put out the compost from the kitchen, and was covering it with soil, Sami asked me not to next time, so the dogs could eat what they wished from it. Even horses wander at will through villages. But the most amazing animal I saw was the 3 legged horse on my first day in Kashmir. I still want to have a chat with the owner.

The food is healthy and locally grown and organic. And vegetarianism is common. Even people who do eat meat eat it sparingly.

Children are loved by both parents, and get lots of attention since everyone eats on the floor. I often see fathers walking with their little boys, and their girls. And feeding their children. Caring for children is clearly shared, because they are loved. And there is time for them.

Drunk drivers do not exist here. Alcohol is not sold anywhere. So there is no alcohol-related violence, no party culture. No drunken hooning on the roads at night, no drunks stumbling along the streets, or passed out in the gutter, or making lewd comments to the girls. No bars to go to. No alcoholic fathers making life miserable for their families. No hidden alcoholic mothers. None. So what do people do without alcohol?

People talk to each other. They hang out together, and just spend time together, rather than sit at home and watch TV, or go out to the bars. In the evenings, when so many New Zealanders and Americans are in front of their TV watching the news and getting a big dose of negativity and violence, here they talk to their neighbours and watch the light fade.

People walk from place to place, and they don’t have to go far because there are many little shops in the villages, which sell pretty much anything you might need. And the shops are open early and stay open late – until after 9pm many of them. And why not? Family and neighbours are there to chat with them.

Children and teens are respectful and happy. Not sullen and angry and demanding. It is a pleasure to work with the teens who come for computer training. We all get along really well.

Like New Zealand and the US where not every Christian goes to church, not everyone who is a Muslim drops what they are doing and prays 5 times a day. And only one person here, in all the people I have met, have asked my about my own beliefs. And that was at a church.

Kashmir - First Days

As soon as we arrived back from the hospital, there were people waiting for training on the laptops. To begin with, we just have them open Word and write a bit about themselves, or copy an article from a newspaper. They also like the Paint programme. The students who know more end up doing the teaching. I am there to advise more on technical issues at the moment.

One young student, Faizan, is very good already and is bored by what I can offer, so I am having him help me edit my photos. He is such a quick student, and his English is very good, so he understands my instructions easily. Once my box of additional items arrives, there will be a digital camera, and with some editing software, he can continue working with the Centre's photos after I leave. And train others. Faizan is not disabled, he is from a wealthy family and just likes to hang out with the folks at Hope Centre.

Friday walking to volleyball there was a horse on the sidewalk!

I carry my camera everywhere!! There are surprises around every corner here! Once we reached the area near the volleyball court, there was a one-legged shepherd with his sheep. He let me take his photo. He is a nieghbour of the Wani family.

I have noticed that the sheep in Kashmir get to keep their tails.

And there are quite a few horses and carts around.

On Saturday morning the night watchman Imtiyaz accompanied me on my walk to his village. It is up the hill behind the Centre, on a steep rocky path just wide enough for a small jeep. That is the shortcut way, anyway, there is a longer way taken by buses. We first went to the village, and I was surprised to learn that 20 minutes walk away is a village of 20,000 people! Many people called out to Imtiyaz as we passed, and he told them I was the computer teacher for the centre. That is a good simple explanation. One of Imtiyaz's 5 brothers runs a store in the village, and we stopped for a photo. Everyone joined in, of course. The light was beautiful, and the person using the camera held it steady. I have noticed that most people are not familiar with cameras, and don't hold them steady enough for a good photo, so I lose some potentially great shots, because people want a photo with me, which means someone else has to take the photo.

We then went to Imtiyaz's family home. He showed me his cherry and apple orchard, and his fishpond where he raises grass carp. The pond is drained at the end of the year, and the fish man comes to collect the carp. Imtiyaz gets 80 rupees per kg for them; about 73 cents US per pound or $2.70 NZ per kg. He harvests around 100 kg of fish per year, and is happy with the money since it takes so little work: only half an hour a day on average to feed them grass and maintain the pond. Like so many farm families here, they have a few free range hens, and a goat for milk, vegetables and fruit. All organic. So they eat far better than most city people do, in any country. Over tea, I explained why I took a photo of a chicken for this blog - that most chickens in New Zealand and the US are raised in factories, and this happy hen was a luxury.

Photo of Imtiyaz with rice seed drying, in preparation for planting.

A house on the way back from Imtiyaz's village.

Later, Sami and I traveled up into the mountains to follow up on Naza, a young orphan girl who lives with her uncle and aunt, and are very poor. Her foot was twisted 90 degrees to one side before the surgery. We were there for her one week follow up. Considering the state of the roads we were on, we really should have been in a 4 wheel drive! We found her sitting in the doorway in the sun, with a stream flowing past and a hill on the other side of the stream. Ducks were swimming in the stream, and it was a quiet, peaceful spot to recuperate in. She was doing well, and could walk a bit unaided. I took photos and videos.

On the way back down the mountain, Sami stopped in to see a friend of his; Bureeda Majid, Social Welfare Officer for Kangan. She was fluent in English, and a very able administrator. She explained that disabled people get a government payment of 200 rupees ($5 US) per month. That doesn't go very far, even here!


More students awaited us on our return. Members of the Hope Centre (disabled and former disabled) are hearing that computer training is being given, and they are starting to show up - new faces every day.

Saturday evening I went down to the volleyball court with Tahir, but the men had finished playing, and were lounging around on the rocks just chatting. When I showed up, one of them held the ball and inquired nonverbally if I would like to have a go. I don't think he expected me to immediately remove my jacket, drop my bag, and walk over to the court! He couldn't back down, of course, so we went one on one for a few minutes until I started getting out of breath. It is a good workout! Sami did not see this. So the next night, Sami was quite surprised when they invited me to join in a real game. I was bad, but proved helpful a couple of times. After the game, the kids invited me to practice , and I started hitting again with my forearms. But I won't play in a game again. I prefer to practice with the boys, and also that way I won't cause too much trouble by playing with the men. I get much more exercise that way too.

Sunday Sami drove me into Srinagar so I could attend church. There are two churches in Srinagar, both Catholic. I was surprised to find any! We arrived at 8am to find the gates closed, and learned the service was now at 10:30. So we went for breakfast and then I had a walk along Dal Lake, turning down many offers for hired boat rides on the lake on a shakira. The cost is posted on signs along the lake: 200 rupees per hour ($2 US) .

Before returning to church, we bought groceries from a friend of Sami's. I wanted some cleaning supplies, nuts, raisins, honey, and oatmeal.
We returned to the Holy Family church, and Sami went to have tea with some friends.
The service was in Kashmiri and English, and the father was Indian. There were about 100 attendees. No Europeans except me.

As I was leaving, a young man came up to me and said he was Muslim, and wanted to buy a Bible. I chatted with him briefly, and told him I wanted to buy a Koran. He was very happy. I went with him into the church and he purchased a beautiful Bible for only 120 rupees ($2.50 US), and then led Sami and me to a Muslim bookstore, where purchased my Koran for only 150 rupees ($3 US). I am afraid he was a bit too strong a Muslim, and wanted the Bible only to point out what he feels are flaws, rather than read it with an open mind. He was doing his best to convert me in the bookstore. If he stays in touch with me, perhaps I can persuade him to have a more open mind about Christians, as I hope also to do with Christians about Islam. A big ask, I know. But one can only try, in this effort to reach peace in the world. We worship the same God, after all. I was reminded of the article in the Delhi Times of India, which advises "do not study other religions to find holes in their belief systems. Honour the strength of your own tradition. And if you notice similarities with others, be gracious enough to acknowledge and appreciate the gifts of other traditions. Cure yourself of thinking that you've got it right and others are on a 'wrong' path. ...Be conversant with the Bible and see how Jesus tries to spread love, and cut across discriminative barriers; reflect on the Bhagavad Gita and the call to a life of ..selfless action; explore the intricate web of the Q'uran and recognise invitations to mercy and justice....
No traditions, if you've studied them with sensitivity and understanding, incite their followers to violence. ...One's efforts should be directed toward acquiring enlightenment, refining desire and will by purging them of selfishness, by learning to endure pain, getting rid of hate, cultivating love." Homayun Taba

So perhaps that was why he approached me, of all the people there, to ask for help. Time will tell.

On the way back to Wayil, Sami mentioned that he spends all his salary on the Hope Centre. There is so little money coming in, and all the donations are used to fund surgeries and medicine and prosthetic equipment. There is nothing for gas or vehicle repair or office supplies. No ink in the printer, no refrigerator or oven in the kitchen, no kitchen towels or hot water. Sami's salary is 6000 rupees per month, $120 US. But he was able to change the lives of many young people through corrective surgery and rehabilitation. He counted up 75 surgeries in the past year.
Monday. I went with Imtiyaz to buy our morning bread and milk. The bread, chappatis (small pitas), are made fresh every morning by a blind man who measures the flour in his hand. His associate bakes them by pressing them up against the wall of the wood fired oven. The price? Two rupees each, or 4 cents US. And this is one of the reasons people can survive on $2 a day!

I stayed at the Centre on Monday, training staff and disabled members who stopped by. I write my blog and edit my photos as they type in Word or learn mouse skills with Paint. One of my students, Rajah, has one leg, and uses no crutches. His leg was amputated at the hip. So a prosthetic leg is not possible for him. His English is excellent and so are his computer skills.

Near sunset, Sami and I went to visit Parmeena, a girl who was going into hospital the next day, to sign papers and confirm everything. This 12 year old girl had deformed legs due to rickets. One leg had surgery last year, and now they were going to operate on the other leg. Parmeena.

We stopped on the way home and visited Sami's aunt, his mother's sister, and a cousin. She was baking bread in her home oven.

Kashmir: Arrival in a Troubled Paradise

One last hurdle for the laptops: being overweight for the flight to Srinagar from Delhi. I had a chat with my driver to the airport. Krishna's father died of cancer, in their small village in Nepal. Krishna moved to Delhi on his own at the age of 15 to try to make enough money to send home to his mother to assist with her and the other children he has been in Delhi 10 years now, and has learned a bit of English and drives a taxi for a company. He works 15 days on night shift, and 15 days on the day shift, 12 hour days. He gets no benefits, no holidays, and is able to send some money back to the family. He especially wants to fund an education for his brother's 2 year old son. He thinks he won't be able to ever improve his position in life without an education. I told him that at his age, a skill would be better than a general education. He is somewhat familiar with computers, and has an e-mail address, so I laid out a plan for how he could set himself up in business making websites using freewebs. If he follows up and takes a look at freewebs, I will help him more when I return to Delhi in Sept or early Oct.

I found the name of this camper van amusing. It perfectly denotes the feeling of anyone driving in Delhi for the first time.

They let me on the flight to Srinagar with no fee for the extra weight. So the laptops made it all the way with no extra cost.

Flying into Kashmir, the planting terraces were green and beauiful. Clearly hand planted and harvested, with the curved boundaries blending into each other.

Tahir was at the airport to pick me up, and the fresh air and cool spring green was a delightful contrast to Delhi. On the way to Wayil, I was astounded to see a 3 legged horse slowly making its way across the road in front of us. A three legged horse! Untended. I asked Tahir later how is it that someone would keep such a horse. Tahir said you will see many such animals in Kashmir. And the owner of the horse would be giving it food and pills if necessary to keep it healthy, even though it could do no work. I want a photo of that horse, and its owner! I also spotted a horse hobbling along on a foot turned over. Amazing. They are not killed.

Upon my arrival at the Hope Disability Centre, one of the staff gave me these colourful plastic flowers. I decided to put them above my bed. And then there was tea with Sami Wani, the manager and Senior Physiotherapist of Hope Centre, and Tahir.

My first few hours in Kashmir were spent with Sami and Tahir's family. I learned to say Salaam Aliekum in greeting, and I learned to use the toilet without toilet paper. For the second time in my (adult) life I learned to eat a full meal sitting on the floor, using only my right hand - and now I understand, really understand, why the left hand is considered unclean, and why one doesn't use it for eating, and why it is such an insult to offer someone your left hand. I expect there are no southpaws in this part of the world. The Kashmiris have a special pitcher and bowl for washing hands before and after a meal.I need to remember to let others go first, so I can follow their example. I see now that the left hand is not even allowed washing after the meal. One handed washing.

There will be no wine with dinner for several months. Bottled water will be my new beverage of choice. That and the strong boiled tea with milk served here. True chai.

I had saffron tea at the Wani family Compound my first night. Mr Wani, the patriarch of the clan, is the boad chair for the centre, and donated the land for it. It wouldn't be here if it wasn't for him.

I walked with Sami to the volleyball game set up by the river. No females anywhere around. The players were all young men, and they were all very good. The audience was boys, who took over the court once the young men had finished their games. Sami plays with them when he can, but many evenings he is busy with paperwork and e-mails, and doesn't break away.
My room is in the Centre itself, so I need not worry about transportation, and I always have everything I need near at hand. Being out away from a city, with no street lights, the nights are pitch black and very quiet; the only sound the rushing stream and the ticking of the wall clock. The centre has a night watchman - who lives at the Centre. He is a young Pakistani man named Imtyaz . So I feel very safe.

I went for a walk my first morning. Unlike the US and New Zealand, most people here walk from one place to another. The children walk to school, people walk to work in the fields near their houses, or wait on the road for a bus or a friend to pick them up. So I had lots of opportunities to practice my Salaam Aliekum with people I passed on the road. I certainly didn't pass unnoticed, as they don't get many Europeans out here. No one was rude to me, an infidel. On the contrary, everyone returned my greeting with at least some kind of acknowledgement, and some were very friendly. The sargeant in charge of the bridge guards,

for example, invited me into the office for a cup of boiled milk tea. He wasn't carrying a rifle, and seemed genuine, so I took him up on it. It is so helpful having grey hair. I can just relate to people on a human to human basis. The tea was delicious, especially since he added just a pinch of salt. The wiring was dodgy, but I realize this is how a lot of wiring is done here!

Here are some photos from my first walk:

At this time of year, late April, the oat crop is starting to be harvested, and will be replaced with rice and some corn later on. I have never studied the paddy form of farming before. It seems a very efficient system, and good for small farmers.

The very careful controlling of the flow of water from the mountains was evident everywhere.

This rose was being air-layered. A plastic bag with moss was placed around a joint and kept moist. In a few weeks enough roots will form to cut the branch off the mother plant and a new rose bush is planted.

I began helping the staff learn Word on Wednesday. It went OK, but we need new mice for 2 of the laptops.

The walker Rob had me bring was in use quickly too:

After lunch of rice and dal (seasoned lentils in sauce), I went with Sami to follow up on Rehania, a girl who had recently had surgery to have her leg lengthened. It was 5 inches shorter than the other one. Here is a photo of her before surgery. She was at school, and we arrived at recess time. The children crowdwd around and had to be told to stay away, as Sami unwrapped the girl's leg and examined it. I filmed the process. When we went back to the van, it was like parting the sea, the children were so intent on our visit. Smiling and waving, we left, promising to return in 10-15 days.

I took one last photo of Rehania, being helped by her friends at school. When I return, I will give her a print of this photo.

On the way back to Hope Centre, Sami stopped to give a ride to 11 schoolgirls and their teacher. They all crowded into the van - like sardines!

My second morning I walked the other direction, and followed the path along the stream. It was good to get off the road with its honking traffic going past a few inches away. At one point there were a couple of concrete posts placed across the stream for a bridge. I crossed, and started climbing. The road would be hard to navigate on foot in winter when it was icy! Soon a young boy stopped to say hello and practice his english. His good name was Tasaduk. I met his older sister, too, but didn't catch her name. She was too shy to practice her english. Tasaduk was game, though. I noticed as we talked that his school uniform of white shirt and blue sweater had seen better days - worn and frayed shirt, holes in his sweater. His family would not be the richest in the tiny mountain village of Sahipora. He and his sister were on their way to school. I gave him my card and told him that if his teacher would like me to visit the classroom, I would be happy to come. He told me his village was up the hill to the right, so as I continued climbing, I took the right fork when the path split. The people in the village were very surprised to see me. One of the villagers spoke english, so I told him I was just out for a walk. On the way back down, I chatted with a young man who said I could call him if I were visiting the village again. And his friend invited me for tea. I took a photo of Bashu and his 2 friends. If this happens every time I go for a walk, I will soon know as many people in Ganderbal as Sami!

Here is a photo of one of the local mosques:

After my walk, Sami and Din the ambulance driver and I headed to 2 hospitals and other places in Srinagar. I filmed and photographed my way through the day, meeting Sami's doctor friends who donate their time for Sami's poor patients, and his suppliers of orthopedic parts who sells wholesale to Sami. And several patients as well. One little boy due for surgery was in his hospital bed and understandably very apprehensive. I showed him his digital photo to get a smile from him.

We met up with Sami's brother Tahir before heading back to Wayil. Tahir works and lives in Srinagar. I had a very important question to ask him: did he remember if the 3-legged horse we saw on our drive from the airport had its leg amputated above or below the knee? He recalled it was below the knee, which was great news, because Sami can make a prosthetic limb for it! I would like to find the horse and its owner and learn the story behind it. It may well make a wonderful human and animal interest story.

We stopped at a computer store to pick up a couple of mice for the laptops, and blank DVDs so I can burn copies of the Hope Centre's BBC World Challenge entry. This will make a great gift for the doctors and all the other supporters of the centre. Hope Centre's computer is too old to play or burn DVDs, and their internet access is dial up only, so they haven't even seen it yet, until I arrived. My laptop is earning its keep. It takes 45 minutes to burn a DVD, but I can be doing other things while it burns away.

The kitchen at Hope Centre has no oven, just gas and one electric burner. So I won't be able to bake muffins for people while here. Sami, bless his heart, really enjoys cooking, and I love the vegetarian meals he comes up with. Rice and veggies and lentils are fine by me every night. Last night Sami re-wired the kitchen and bathroom lights, while held my solar flashlight so he could see better. Having held flashlights for men many many times, I have learned the fine art of the go-fer. I no longer bristle at being always the helper and never the do-er, now that I have had plenty of do-ing with the apartment building in Iowa. In the two days I have been here, I have watched Sami dam the stream to get enough water to run the mini hydro plant, run wiring through the walls to get better electricity to the kitchen, cook meals, care for the large flower garden and grass he planted just before I arrived, and see numerous patients and arrange for drugs and foot straightening tools for a young boy awaiting surgery in the public hospital.

A hair-raising ride back to Wayil, where I had to close my eyes a number of times and make sure not an inch of my body was outside the vehicle, especially since there was no side mirror on my side of the van. I doubt if I will see many side mirrors in India. The 2-3 inches they take up are critical!


Every morning the van driver Din, whose salary is paid for by the local police office, collects physically and mentally disabled children from the surrounding area to bring to Hope Centre for the day. Here is one of the girls arriving. And a photo of them having lunch outside.